Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Just A Rock Floating Through the Universe

Hello again! I'm definitely going to try to not make this my last post while in Japan, but I am afraid I can't make any promises. I just got back from an impromptu camping trip down by a river in a place called "Hozukyo" where people often go to swim. And by impromptu, I mean a friend came to my door yesterday afternoon and said "how much can you throw into a bag, right now?"



We had actually gone out to the river over the weekend, just to swim and frolic and had talked about the possibility, but I completely forgot. Oh well! I managed to pack my bathing suit (but no towel), a pillow (but nothing to sleep on), and my iPod (but no money, a dead cell phone, and a dead camera). Overall, however, it was a success. I had grilled zucchini in hotdog buns, along with pumpkin slices, bell peppers, and the other (limited) vegetarian barbecue fair. Afterwards we built a proper campfire and hung around, telling scary stories and shining the torch into the darkness as people are (for some reason) wont to do on camping trips.




Here's where we swam! The river is gorgeous, and the water is nice and cool. Or quite freezing, if you happen to catch the current flowing down from the top of the mountains. On the whole it was quite lovely. Although I am slightly covered in sand. In any case, let's see. We had another farewell party since I last wrote.



An Australian girl had to leave early because of the similarities of the Japanese/Aussie school calendar. Twas sad, but lots of folks turned out to wish her farewell and celebrate the last day of class. She's the one draped in the Australian flag, by the way. I couldn't begin to tell you where I am in this photo, haha.



Our last day of class was very relaxed. We ate snacks and talked about our "Japan experience". And, at the end of class we took a picture! So here's most (minus my kiwi friend Feliks and a Chinese student named Yui) of my Japanese class from this semester, plus one of our grammar teachers.



Aside from academics, there have been so many festivals since I last updated! Three, in fact! But, to be fair, the first one was a pretty big deal. Called "Gion Matsuri" it's named for a famous maiko/geisha girl area in Kyoto. Super traditional, super popular, super 京都らしい, the best translation for which is possibly "Kyoto-y"? Essentially the festival is week long, but on the final day they have a huge parade with really wicked floats, assembled without nails and moved primarily with manpower alone. (Except for these bums on the roof, who just add dead weight, haha). In any case, the typical way to celebrate Gion Matsuri is to go to the parade dressed up in a "yukata", the summer version of a kimono. It's quite a popular tradition, even the 外人 get in on it...



Myself included! Yep, I got my yukata on, despite it being about 100 degrees outside (or about 38 for you Celsius freaks). It was quite fun though, and afterwards we had an amazing lunch at an Indian restaurant where I used my (limited) Japanese skills to negotiate a meatless version of the lunch special for myself and a vegetarian friend. The next festival fortunately took place at night...



Fushimi Inari shrine is best known for its seemingly endless trails of "torii" gates, ascending upwards along stone staircases to the very pinnacle of the temple. I had never been before the night festival, but it was still stunning, if not slightly creepy, in the darkness. Covered in glowing paper lanterns of all shapes and sizes, we wandered the grounds, still sweating despite the absence of the sweltering Japanese sun, and enjoying some shaved ice on the cheap. Inexplicably enough, the mascot of the shrine is a fox, so there were incredibly cute fox things everywhere, and a Canadian housemate even dressed up in a fox costume, much to the amusement of the Japanese festival-goers.



Last, but certainly not least, was the "Tenjin Matsuri" in Osaka. Osaka is actually only about a half hour by train away from Kyoto, but I don't find much reason to go over there, so this was my first real excursion there since the beginning of the semester. The "Tenjin" festival consisted of two things: boats and fireworks. We wandered down the riverside, looking at all the classic Japanese festival tents which include snacks ranging from fried cheese balls (which I steered clear of), takoyaki (or fried balls of batter and squid, yum!), and ice-cold fruit on a stick (I had two amazing slices of pineapple). We watched the boats go down the river for a bit and there was much traditional drumming, dancing, and costumes. After a while the fireworks started and we wandered to find a place where we could see them. Easier said than done...



We ended up in a back alley with about a thousand Japanese people, whose every other word we joked was "やば" or "見えへん", something along the lines of "crap!" and "I can't see!". Osaka, being a city with tall buildings, is not very conducive to fireworks displays, but overall we got a good eyeful. Afterwards I went with two Canadian friends to a place called Spa World, a huge multi-floor bathhouse where for about $35 we got to spend as long as we liked in the many, varied baths and have a place to sleep for the night. Some of the baths were pretty amazing, we were on the Europe floor so we had a Mediterranean cave bath, a Spanish waterfall, a Finnish ice bath, and a salt sauna (among others). It was basically the most relaxing thing in the world, and the perfect end to a day spent wandering about Kyoto and Osaka in the ample humidity.

At this stage I'm sure you're wondering how much longer this entry could possibly get, and the answer is: just a little bit. Outside of everything I've mentioned so far I've also...



Graduated! Yep, they had a little ceremony for us, then fed us free food and showed a slideshow of pictures from the past year. The beginning ceremony was a bit taxing, not only did I rush to bike there in dress clothes (sweating like nobody's business), but then we had to sit through what had to have been the longest single speech in Japanese I have ever heard. The only amusing part was I received honorable mention from one of my teachers for my "Show & Tell" project in which I came in wearing a hat, spoke about the origins of the "Mohican" hairstyle, then pulled off my beanie to reveal that over the previous weekend I had shaved my hair into a mohawk. Even for those of you who hated the mohawk, you have to admit, that's pretty funny. In any case, I received a bound diploma and a decorative box with the Ritsumeikan insignia on it for my trouble.

So that's what's been going on in my Japan life this past couple of weeks... And now, it's almost over. My friend Xi-chan will be arriving tomorrow evening and spending the final days with me, running around and doing lots of touristy things in Kyoto. Then, on Saturday August 2nd I will fly out of Kansai International Airport, homeward bound. (Or, at least, Detroit, Michigan bound). I find it hard to believe where the time has gone... Lately I've been going around on my own quite a bit, taking photos with my 35mm camera. Yesterday I went out to a place just beyond the boundaries of Kyoto, near a lake and the foot of some mountains that are bordered by endless planes of rice fields. I thought a lot about my time here. I snapped shots of the rich green fields, the sunset over the top of the mountains, and a white crane standing serenely at the water's edge. There were a surprising amount of other Japanese people wandering about this seemingly uninteresting place. Some were praying at a small shrine. Children ran about trying to catch the small frogs hopping about in between the rows of rice. Many more still were sitting in their cars, alone, stopped on the side of the road, reading, smoking, or watching the sunset. Some even had the engine cranked and were running the A/C. Japan is full of things like this. People with one foot in, one foot out of the past. It was as though they were all feeling some sensation of loss for something they never really possessed. I took photos until the light disappeared, slipping behind the edge of the horizon and back towards the side of the earth I call home.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Blackbird Singing in the Dead of Night

Well, I should be writing an exceedingly boring essay about the Kuril island debate between Japan and Russia, but I think it's been long enough since I last updated (over a month?), that it's just becoming absurd. So here I am! Back in style. A lot has happened since I last wrote, but at the same time I've been quite boring. The end of the semester crunch sort of caught up with me and I just couldn't bring myself to make the time to update. So... Since much has changed I think I'm going to make this a "word light" entry and satiate your desires to know all about my Japanese adventures with pretty pictures!

Well, I think it's always important to begin with first things first. In case you haven't heard, there were circumstances, and I came to have a mohawk briefly (for a little less than a month). Brace yourself...



You only live once, right? We had a good time, my mohawk and I...


We met a Maiko-san! (A geisha-in-training). Maiko-san are very young, they start at age 14 or so, this girl was 17. She was very awesome. She did traditional dances for us and answered our nosy questions about what Maiko life is like. They only get two days off from work a month. Our Maiko-san usually goes to the movies. My impression overall was that Maiko/Geisha have a serious dedication to their art.


We also went to one of the monthly markets! There were tons of very Japanese things there. Here I am picking out a frosted glass bead that I haggled down to 200円. If you have any specific requests for souvenirs, by the way, now would be the time to get those in! I'd like to try and bring back everybody at least a little something. :)


We journeyed together to a very big castle called Himeiji. It was quite pretty. The train ride there actually cost more than entrance to the castle, though...


I also have gone out for some beers with friends! Look at me, I'm legal! :) In any case, shortly after this was taken I said goodbye to my mohawk. Sufficiently less cool, I decided to try to remedy my awesome index with a trip up Mount Fuji, the tallest mountain in Japan! (Well that wasn't the real reason, but it does score pretty high on the awesome index I think).


So! The tale of Mt. Fuji. We started out at the train station, looking and feeling alert, even though it was about 7:30 AM on a Saturday. We took a very long bus ride out to the mountain and up to the "5th station", a little less than halfway up. We started climbing from there at about 6 PM in the evening.


It was pretty rough going. The beginning of the trail was made up of "switchbacks", or gravel paths that switched back and forth like a zigzag so you didn't have to climb straight up. Darkness fell pretty soon after we started, and we all whipped out our various forms of light. And yeah, I know you're pretty jealous of my LED headlamp.


At about 10 PM me and my climbing mates reached the first "8th station" (roughly three hours from the top, yeah!). We were supposed to stop here and rest for a couple of hours, but because there are inexplicably three different stations called "8th station", we forged on to what was called "the original 8th station". (By the way, for the Americans in the audience, 3,250m is about 10,662ft!)


Well, in the end we were wrong about the "original 8th station". We were supposed to stay at the first "8th station", but by the time we realized our error we were about an hour and a half of climbing up rocks too far afield. Sad that we weren't going to get our power nap on the floor of one of the mountain huts (Mt. Fuji is all about the splendor), we resigned to waiting until the rest of the group caught up to us in the next couple of hours. We made a nest, but no one really slept. We just kept warm for a while, entertained ourselves, and drank some hot cocoa to keep warm. Finally, when the group caught up to us, we began the last stretch up to the top of the mountain to watch the sunrise (scheduled for about 4:30 AM).


And we made it! About 10 min. before sunrise everyone was awake, alert, and at the top of Mt. Fuji, all 3,766m of her! The sunrise was breathtakingly beautiful and made the whole 9 hour climb worth it.


Predawn...


The sun creeps up.


In all its glory.


After watching the sun come up (and waiting 20 minutes to use the only toilet on the top of the mountain), we made our way down, which only took about 4 hours, but was incredibly painful. (This photo was taken before we really started...) By the end of it we were exhausted, sweaty, dirty, sore, and ready for some new feet. I climbed on the bus and passed out almost instantly. On the way home we visited a hot spring, which was lovely for my poor blistered feet, and then made the rest of the epic bus journey back.

And I believe that's all the photos I have for now. This past week has been a couple of final exams and projects, interspersed with extreme bouts of sleeping in an attempt to recover from Mt. Fuji. Last night was our first official "goodbye party". :( We went out to eat at a restaurant where they showed a slideshow of pictures from this semester and the previous one, then we hung around by the river. It's still early for true goodbyes, but in reality we really don't have much time left. I'm uncertain what's in store for me in these last few weeks. (Aside from the inevitable pain of finals). I'll try and keep you updated, but I can't make any promises! (Such a terrible blogger...) Peace and good will from the land of watching the sun rise from above the clouds...